Cocciopesto…errr What?

Cocchiopesto at the Estampa Winery in Chile

When I first heard the word Cocciopesto I thought it must be a pasta dish! In fact, it’s a material that was widely used by the Romans for making storage vessels. The Phoenicians may have been the first to use the material widely for liquid storage and it must have served them well on their Mediterranean trading routes. The Romans then embraced the use of what they called Opus Signinum in the making of amphorae for transport across their expanding empire. Today we are blessed in the fact that some innovative winemakers are rediscovering the material and embracing its use all over again.

Cocciopesto, pronounced “kottchio pesto” is a mixture of ground bricks or tiles, fine stone and sand, natural fiber binders, plus water. This mixture can then be formed into vessels that are waterproof but still allow micro-oxygenation. As you can see below, the modern incarnations of these ancient vessels have been fitted with stainless steel accessories to make winemaking more efficient and hygienic than it was back then!

Note that I am going to use the word “amphora” quite often below. It could be said that this term should only be used for the smaller, stackable vessels with handles used in ancient times for transport on ships. But I will use it here as a “catch-all” for ceramic or clay pots of all shapes and sizes.

Thousands of years before the use of oak, maybe some 6000 years before judging by finds in Georgia and Armenia, wine was being fermented, stored, and transported in clay amphorae. Back then they didn’t understand the chemical reactions that occur within the vessel as we do today, but regardless they appear to have designed a shape that was perfect for the task anyway. Circular currents develop during fermentation, moving solids around the amphora and ensuring a more even extraction.

Purists will be itching to point out that amphorae should be specifically named according to their shape and origin, Karas (Armenia), Qvevri (Georgia), Tinajas (Spain), etc. But all of these vessels share many common characteristics that we can see clearly in our photos of the Cocciopesto amphorae at Estampa.

The amphorae we are pictured with were made by an Italian company called Drunk Turtle. What a great company name that is! Clicking the link you can see they come in several sizes but always in exactly the same shape. There is a growing trend of winemakers choosing to use cocciopesto, clay, or concrete amphorae, so why is this?

• Amphorae can be cleaned and re-used, for decades, unlike oak
• This reuse offsets the initial high investment, i.e. 5 or 6 times the cost of oak
• Micro-oxygenation is predictable and linear in its annual delivery
• Neutral character ensures the grape and terroir is showcased in the finished wine
• No need for extra cooling technology due to thermal inertia and material performance
• Allows for natural ph modification and fining without additives
• Reduced need for punching down due to curved shape of amphorae
• Modern accessories such as stainless taps and cleaning hatches are easily added
• Can be made to almost any size, hence useful for micro-vinification or large batches
• Great tool for those involved in natural, organic, and biodynamic winemaking

Of course, it all depends on the style of wine you are trying to produce. Many winemakers will want to use oak for many of their wines and garner all the benefits that barrels offer. The winemaker at Estampa is clearly covering all her bases as you can see stainless steel tanks, oak barrels, and amphorae in the same winery space.

You can see they also look great lined up in the winery and add something visually. You might choose to decorate or paint them to suit the company image or treat them like works of art, adding even more value for visitors and staff alike. It may seem that we have come a long way from the times of Phoenician seafarers, but in reality, we are circling back!