Casablanca Wineries Re-opening.
It has been a very long wait! We came to Chile in March 2020 to build some new relationships with Casablanca wineries and hotels and just look at what happened! So some seven months after we originally planned to visit new wineries, we can start doing so and we are getting out and about in the Chilean countryside with plenty of enthusiasm.
Note: Masks were worn while inside, we were keeping our hands clean all the time plus social distancing was practiced except for during some quick photo ops. Brutus the dog didn’t care if we wore masks or not!
With the owner, winemaker, and brand ambassador at Villard – plus Brutus the dog!
Casablanca is a gem of a place for wine enthusiasts, about 75 minutes drive from the capital and boasting around 15 wineries that accept visitors, all clustered quite closely together. There are some heavyweights in this cluster and also some smaller-scale, boutique establishments. There are some relatively new owners and winemakers, plus some that have spent many generations working vines on these lands.
Whatever varieties the winery chooses for its portfolio they will definitely be cool climate incarnations. The region demonstrates a heavy oceanic influence (courtesy of the cold Humboldt Current) which manifests itself in cool temperatures, morning fogs, and strong afternoon winds.
This micro-climate is a double-edged sword of course. Cool with plenty of sunshine, and strong winds mean grapes can fully ripen but can do so slowly, and stay healthy. On the flip side, at some times it may be that early or late frosts damage the vines, buds, or berries, hence large fans with heating systems can be spotted in many vineyards. White wine rules the roost as you might expect, but not as much as it used to. Today there are many fantastic reds being crafted here, with great complexity and acidic juiciness, Pinot Noir and Syrah are top performers in the right hands.
On this recce, we visited four wineries, Kingston, Casas del Bosque, Veramonte, and Villard. Each one is quite different and each has its own special points of interest, notable wines, and/or vineyards. Our program page for Casablanca will be updated further and further during the next few weeks, and after each additional visit, but the latest info can be found here.
The Kingston Family winery is just that, a family-run concern and has been for many generations. The interesting back story of Kingston is covered on their website, make sure you take a read if you intend to visit. The winery is boutique-sized in production, they have a very large estate under vine but sell 85% of their grapes, using the best selection for themselves. You can see the production area in one of the photos here, and it is very compact compared with many in the region. They have invested heavily in their tasting lounge, and it is indeed and lovely place to kick back and sip with views over the vines.
Casas del Bosque is our choice for lunch, the winery is great and the wines delicious but our favorite part of the visit is enjoying great food and service on the beautiful terrace. There is a great tasting room with views into the cellars which is a must-do, plus the winery has its “Casa Mirador” perched on a hill overlooking the estate. Here you can enjoy a private, more exclusive tasting and this is where we will have you taste before or after you have eaten and toured the winery. Like at Kingston, what views!
Veramonte is a very impressive setup with extensive visitor facilities and tour options, plus the winery is super accessible being close to the highway. When we visited they were just getting back on their feet after being out of tourism action with Covid but we saw what they can and will offer and were impressed. Lovely gardens complement the experience if you are tasting outside and they have a trial pit, or “Calicata” as they are known in these parts, where you can view soil horizons and root penetration.
Villard was our last visit before heading back to Santiago and in some ways our favorite of this particular 2-day recce trip. The owners produce some innovative and premium wines in their portfolio, which we loved tasting and you will too. But the feeling and look of the place are also things you will love. Again the winery is perched on a hill with fantastic views over the vines. The vineyards stretch off into the distance and you can explore them, some of which are very steep indeed. The tasting room is beautifully appointed, the winery accessible for learning more on the way it is done in Casablanca. Taste inside or outside on the terrace if you wish and the owners will come and join you, answering any questions you may have. This visit has an intimate and family-run ambiance and is highly recommended.
So thankfully for our eyes, palates and sanity wineries in Casablanca are gradually opening, and we will be visiting all that we can and include some of our opinions on these pages. Let us know if there is anything you want to know prior to coming down to Chile, once you are allowed to of course!
